This very special limited edition model is now SOLD OUT.
Thank you so much to everyone that has ordered copies, it took just 21 minutes for them to sell out!!
Thank you so much to everyone that has ordered copies, it took just 21 minutes for them to sell out!!
General information: This edition was released and sold out on 3rd April 2015. The prices were as follows: £75 for kit form, where the model was supplied with a set of wings to be affixed by the new owner and £105 for the wings-attached option, where I attached the wings and sculpted over the joins providing a partly-prepped model to the buyer either in white or black primer. Postage was extra, they were all sent out via tracked and signed for options. The edition size is 25 resin copies only, 12 copies were sold in kit form and 13 copies were supplied with wings attached. All resin copies were supplied with a black laser-engraved aluminium Certificate of Authenticity (COA) card.
"Kit Form" Option.
Supplied with a Black COA Card If the wings are ever sold, with or without the Union Jack resin foal, the COA card must be supplied to the new owner. |
"Wings Attached" Option
Supplied with a Black COA Card COA card must stay with the model, so if sold, the card must be supplied to the new owner of the Pegasus model. |
Black COA Cards - these must be supplied with the wings, so if you sell your set of wings, the card goes with them. If you sell your UJ Pegasus complete with wings, the card must be supplied to the new owner.
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Assembly Instructions for those who bought a Pegasus in "Kit Form"
Please read this part as well as the notes on the individual photos.
DO NOT attempt to affix both wings in one go, first affix the off side wing (as it's easier) and once that is fully set only then affix the near side wing. Attempting to fix both wings in one go will likely end up with them being misaligned.
Prior to glueing, wash all pieces in cool soapy water - DO NOT USE HOT WATER!! Hot water will cause the customised head position to revert to its original position. Rinse all pieces fully to remove any soapy residue and allow to dry fully.
Once all pieces are completely dry, line up the wings with the model using the images below as reference and mark where the glue will go on the body, then gently score the model (the wings have already been scored for you) so that the glue can get a good strong grip.
Use a two-part epoxy glue, this is important as it is thick and will bridge any gaps, providing a good solid join, it is also slower to set, allowing for small adjustments. Superglue (Crazy glue) can brittle and too thin, it will not bridge any gaps and may not hold long-term, wings would be likely to "pop off". If you are under 18 then get someone over 18 to do this part for you.
When affixing the near side wing, hold the model on a flat surface whilst the glue dries to ensure the wings sits correctly. You will need to hold the wing in position until the glue is solid enough to hold it, the glue I used needed me to hold the wing in place for about three minutes. HOLD IT GENTLY, if you press down on the model and wing, it may not line up properly once cured and may "float" or prevent the foal from lying flat on the floor.
Once securely glued into place, take a small sausage of fully mixed two-part epoxy clay (Apoxie Sculpt, Magic Sculpt etc) and lay it along the join between the wing and the body, using the photos in this album as reference sculpt over the join until it is similar. Use the clay to fill in any gaps along the join under the wing, to ensure a good solid join. You do not need to sculpt underneath the wings as these are not on show, however you can be as creative as you'd like, there are no rules from me on how you complete your model!
Click on the images below for further instructions on how to line up the wings correctly and how to finish them off by sculpting over the joins:
DO NOT attempt to affix both wings in one go, first affix the off side wing (as it's easier) and once that is fully set only then affix the near side wing. Attempting to fix both wings in one go will likely end up with them being misaligned.
Prior to glueing, wash all pieces in cool soapy water - DO NOT USE HOT WATER!! Hot water will cause the customised head position to revert to its original position. Rinse all pieces fully to remove any soapy residue and allow to dry fully.
Once all pieces are completely dry, line up the wings with the model using the images below as reference and mark where the glue will go on the body, then gently score the model (the wings have already been scored for you) so that the glue can get a good strong grip.
Use a two-part epoxy glue, this is important as it is thick and will bridge any gaps, providing a good solid join, it is also slower to set, allowing for small adjustments. Superglue (Crazy glue) can brittle and too thin, it will not bridge any gaps and may not hold long-term, wings would be likely to "pop off". If you are under 18 then get someone over 18 to do this part for you.
When affixing the near side wing, hold the model on a flat surface whilst the glue dries to ensure the wings sits correctly. You will need to hold the wing in position until the glue is solid enough to hold it, the glue I used needed me to hold the wing in place for about three minutes. HOLD IT GENTLY, if you press down on the model and wing, it may not line up properly once cured and may "float" or prevent the foal from lying flat on the floor.
Once securely glued into place, take a small sausage of fully mixed two-part epoxy clay (Apoxie Sculpt, Magic Sculpt etc) and lay it along the join between the wing and the body, using the photos in this album as reference sculpt over the join until it is similar. Use the clay to fill in any gaps along the join under the wing, to ensure a good solid join. You do not need to sculpt underneath the wings as these are not on show, however you can be as creative as you'd like, there are no rules from me on how you complete your model!
Click on the images below for further instructions on how to line up the wings correctly and how to finish them off by sculpting over the joins:
The models listed below were released for general sale on 3rd April 2015. The edition is of 25 copies total.
I kept one for myself and the remaining copies were sent out to Guest Artists.
I kept one for myself and the remaining copies were sent out to Guest Artists.
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Wings A
Muted lilac with a pink pearly sheen 
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Wings B
Pale Green with a white silver pearly sheen 
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Wings C
Sky blue with a white pearly sheen 
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Wings D
Iridescent gold with a magical gold lustre 
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Wings E
Duck egg blue with a subtle white pearly sheen 
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Wing F
Dusky pink, perfect if you fancy making a filly 
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Wings G
Hard to photograph, ethereal blue with a blue pearl 
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Wings H
Pale sage with a magical gold pearl 
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Wings I
Pure silver 
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Wings J
Pastel grassy green with a white pearl sheen 
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Wings K
On the blue side of turquoise with a silver sheen 
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Wings L
Mother of pearl with lots of subtle hues 
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Wings M
Wings of steel, steely blue, like a stormy sky 
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Wings N
Violet, a deeper hue with pearl highlights 
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Wings O
Snow white, with added icy sparkles 
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Wings P
Rose tinted, white pearl with a subtle rosy pearl 
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Wings Q
Royal touch, white pearl with a slightest hint of violet 
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Wings R
Blue ice, white pearl with an icy blue sheen 
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Extra basic info:
All Union Jack foal models are cast in white artist quality polyurethane resin (the usual stuff artist resins are made from). All wing sets are cast using Smooth-On resin in a clear grade, with added pearl pigments. All models are designed to be painted, they require a good soapy wash to remove the wax based mould-release before applying the primer but can then be painted exactly the same way as any other artist resin. When attaching the wings, it is advised that you scored the model where the wings will attach in order for a good bond (I have not done this just in case you don't want to use the wings on your copy ) and also score the wings where they will attach. I recommend a two-part epoxy glue (adult use only) as it allows for gentle repositioning in order to get the perfect fit before the glue sets and it provides a very strong bond which will take almost as much stress as a solid-cast model. I do not recommend using super glue (crazy glue) as once it is set it can be quite brittle and the wings may "pop off". Once the wings are attached it is possible to spray into all the small areas needed to prime the model. Some areas are quite tight but I have been able to prime the entire model by hanging it up with thread and with some careful manoeuvring. You may need to hang the model in a couple of different ways so that you don't have to hold the spray can up-side-down.
The wings supplied can be sold by you, if you want to keep your Union Jack model as a real foal. If you sell your wings, you must send the COA card with them as the buyer will then be the official owner of a pegasus when they add them to their Union Jack resin. These wings will ONLY fit Union Jack, they won't fit other models (without some CM work) due to his asymmetrical pose.
Each Union Jack pegasus has had its head gently repositioned, so some variation in head position is inevitable. I have intentionally made some more extreme than others and some copies hold their head turned and a bit higher than others in order to offer some variety, they will be sent out on a random basis so I cannot choose a specific model for each buyer I'm afraid. The head can be repositioned by the buyer if required by soaking the head and neck in very hot water (adults only) for a few minutes until it has moved back to its original Union Jack position, then either soaking it in cols water to fix it back to its original position, or by gently moving it to the required position and immersing it into ice cold water for a few minutes to set the new position. NOTE: Do not soak the legs in hot water, as they will become quite bendy and it'll be tricky to get them all to sit correctly again! As heat has been used to reposition these models, it is important that they are kept out of direct sunlight and away from sources of heat, as when heated they may revert to the original Union Jack pose. Using hot water to reposition models in this way is a trusted and recognised method used throughout the model horse hobby, so I'm afraid I cannot accept any claims should a model's position move later if exposed to heat. If you are worried this might happen, move your Union Jack's head back to the original position using the method described above, as then, should it be exposed to heat, it will not move at all (unless extreme heat which could severely damage the model).
The models sent out in kit-form will be supplied with illustrated instructions on the best way to attach the wings correctly. All fully paid models will be posted out using Royal Mail's fully tracked services. They will be insured for the cost of manufacture, as Royal Mail will only cover these costs so it is a wasted cost to insure them for the full sale value. If a model is lost in the post, a full refund will be given as these cannot be replaced. If a model is broken in the post, a claim will be made so you MUST keep all packaging and take photos of it in order for the claim to be made. These instances will be dealt with individually based on the level of damage and the customer's preferences.
The models will not be posted out until I have the COA cards for them, which may take a few weeks. Once the cards have arrived they will be included in with the models and then the parcels will be shipped. Models will be shipped in the order they are paid for in full.
All Union Jack foal models are cast in white artist quality polyurethane resin (the usual stuff artist resins are made from). All wing sets are cast using Smooth-On resin in a clear grade, with added pearl pigments. All models are designed to be painted, they require a good soapy wash to remove the wax based mould-release before applying the primer but can then be painted exactly the same way as any other artist resin. When attaching the wings, it is advised that you scored the model where the wings will attach in order for a good bond (I have not done this just in case you don't want to use the wings on your copy ) and also score the wings where they will attach. I recommend a two-part epoxy glue (adult use only) as it allows for gentle repositioning in order to get the perfect fit before the glue sets and it provides a very strong bond which will take almost as much stress as a solid-cast model. I do not recommend using super glue (crazy glue) as once it is set it can be quite brittle and the wings may "pop off". Once the wings are attached it is possible to spray into all the small areas needed to prime the model. Some areas are quite tight but I have been able to prime the entire model by hanging it up with thread and with some careful manoeuvring. You may need to hang the model in a couple of different ways so that you don't have to hold the spray can up-side-down.
The wings supplied can be sold by you, if you want to keep your Union Jack model as a real foal. If you sell your wings, you must send the COA card with them as the buyer will then be the official owner of a pegasus when they add them to their Union Jack resin. These wings will ONLY fit Union Jack, they won't fit other models (without some CM work) due to his asymmetrical pose.
Each Union Jack pegasus has had its head gently repositioned, so some variation in head position is inevitable. I have intentionally made some more extreme than others and some copies hold their head turned and a bit higher than others in order to offer some variety, they will be sent out on a random basis so I cannot choose a specific model for each buyer I'm afraid. The head can be repositioned by the buyer if required by soaking the head and neck in very hot water (adults only) for a few minutes until it has moved back to its original Union Jack position, then either soaking it in cols water to fix it back to its original position, or by gently moving it to the required position and immersing it into ice cold water for a few minutes to set the new position. NOTE: Do not soak the legs in hot water, as they will become quite bendy and it'll be tricky to get them all to sit correctly again! As heat has been used to reposition these models, it is important that they are kept out of direct sunlight and away from sources of heat, as when heated they may revert to the original Union Jack pose. Using hot water to reposition models in this way is a trusted and recognised method used throughout the model horse hobby, so I'm afraid I cannot accept any claims should a model's position move later if exposed to heat. If you are worried this might happen, move your Union Jack's head back to the original position using the method described above, as then, should it be exposed to heat, it will not move at all (unless extreme heat which could severely damage the model).
The models sent out in kit-form will be supplied with illustrated instructions on the best way to attach the wings correctly. All fully paid models will be posted out using Royal Mail's fully tracked services. They will be insured for the cost of manufacture, as Royal Mail will only cover these costs so it is a wasted cost to insure them for the full sale value. If a model is lost in the post, a full refund will be given as these cannot be replaced. If a model is broken in the post, a claim will be made so you MUST keep all packaging and take photos of it in order for the claim to be made. These instances will be dealt with individually based on the level of damage and the customer's preferences.
The models will not be posted out until I have the COA cards for them, which may take a few weeks. Once the cards have arrived they will be included in with the models and then the parcels will be shipped. Models will be shipped in the order they are paid for in full.
